For information only. You may need an experience technician.
A. Refrigerator not cooling
1. Condenser coil is dirty
If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.
2. Condenser coil fan motor
If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity.
3. Evaporator fan motor
If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it.
4. Start relay
If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets.
5. Temperature control thermostat
If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity.
6. Start capacitor
If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with a multimeter.
7. Thermistor
The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter.
8. Temperature control board
The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the temperature control board is defective, it will stop sending voltage to the cooling system. However, this is not a common occurrence. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components.
9. Compressor
The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this isn’t usually the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective components.
10. Main control board
The main control board might be defective. Before replacing the main control board, test all of more commonly defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
PLEASE CALL ME FOR MAIN CONTROL BOARD REPAIR
B. Refrigerator water dispenser not working
1. Water tube in door is frozen
To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.
2. Water inlet valve
The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.
3. Low water pressure from house supply
4. Dispenser control board
The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
5. Dispenser switch
The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity.
6. Water filter
A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the dispenser from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.
7. Door switch
The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity.
C. Refrigerator ice maker not working
1. Freezer temperature is above 10 F (-12 C)
If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.
2. Water inlet valve
See B.2
3. Icemaker assembly
One component of the ice maker assembly might be defective. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are at fault, and the freezer temperature is at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.
4. Icemaker module
The icemaker module is equipped with a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms or turns a tray to eject the cubes into the ice bucket. When the thermostat or sensor on the icemaker tray reaches about 15 degrees Fahrenheit, the motor cycles to release the ice cubes. At the end of the cycle, the icemaker module sends power to the water inlet valve to refill the tray with water. If the icemaker module is defective, the ice maker won’t make or dispense ice.
5. Low water pressure from house supply
6. Door switch
See B.7
7. Ice level control board
Some refrigerators use an infrared beam to sense the level of ice in the ice bucket. When the ice level reaches the top of the bucket, it interrupts the infrared beam. The control board then shuts off the ice maker. When the ice level drops below the beam, the control board signals the ice maker to make more ice. If the ice level control board fails, the ice maker will stop making ice.
8. Icemaker mold thermostat
The icemaker mold thermostat monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature, the icemaker ejects the ice cubes and refills the ice mold with water. If the mold thermostat is defective, the ice maker will stop making ice. To determine if the thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the mold thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
9. Icemaker switch
The ice maker switch might be defective. It is also possible that the icemaker switch got turned off by accident. Check the switch to ensure that it is turned on. If the icemaker switch is turned on, but the ice maker still isn’t working, use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity. If the icemaker switch does not have continuity, replace it.
10. Water filter
See B.6
D. Refrigerator ice dispenser not working
1.Dispenser control board
See B.4
2. Dispenser switch
See B.5
3. Dispenser actuator
The dispenser actuator interacts with the dispenser switches, which power the auger motor and other dispenser components. If the dispenser actuator is broken, it may not activate the switches properly or at all. Inspect the dispenser actuator—if it is broken, replace it.
4. Auger motor
The auger motor spins the auger blade and pushes the ice through the dispenser chute. If the auger motor is burned out or defective, the ice won’t move forward and fall through the chute. To determine if the auger motor is defective, pull out the ice bucket and turn the bucket auger by hand. If the auger turns freely, use a multimeter to test the auger motor for continuity. If the auger motor does not have continuity, or if the motor is getting power but won’t run, replace the auger motor.
5. Dispenser solenoid
The dispenser solenoid opens a door flap to release the ice and then closes the door flap once the dispenser finishes dispensing ice. If the dispenser solenoid is defective, the dispenser door won’t open. To determine if the dispenser door solenoid is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. In addition, check the dispenser actuator pin to ensure that it moves freely. If the dispenser door solenoid does not have continuity, or if the actuator pin does not move freely, replace the dispenser solenoid.
6. Ice bucket auger
When the dispenser lever is pressed, the auger motor rotates the auger. As the auger rotates, it pushes the ice toward the dispenser door and down the chute. If the auger is defective, it won’t be able to push the ice out of the dispenser. Check the auger to determine if it is broken or if it is disconnected from the auger motor. If the auger is broken, replace it.
7. Dispenser door motor
The dispenser door motor opens and closes the dispenser door to prevent cold air from escaping the freezer. If the dispenser door motor is defective, the dispenser door won’t open. As a result, the dispenser will not dispense ice. To determine if the motor is defective, first determine if the motor is getting power. If the motor is getting power, but it won’t run, replace it. You can use a multimeter to test the motor for continuity. If the dispenser door motor does not have continuity, replace it.
8. Ice crusher blade
If the ice crusher blades are jammed by ice, use warm water to melt the ice. If the ice crusher blades are bent or broken, replace them.
E. Refrigerator not defrosting
1. Defrost control board
The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.
2. Defrost timer
The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.
3. Defrost heater assembly
The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
4. Defrost thermostat
The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.
5. Defrost sensor with fuse
The defrost sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator. The defrost sensor has a fuse to back up the sensor in case the sensor fails. If the defrost sensor fails to shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow in order to shut off the defrost heater. If the defrost sensor fuse blows, the defrost system will not work, and the refrigerator will not defrost. The defrost sensor fuse is not resettable—if the defrost sensor fuse blows, you must replace the defrost sensor. To determine if the defrost sensor or fuse is defective, use a multimeter to test both the sensor and fuse for continuity. If either the defrost sensor or fuse does not have continuity, replace the defrost sensor.
6. Main control board
See A.10
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F. Refrigerator noisy or loud
1. Fan blade
If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when the door is opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, turn the evaporator fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade to determine if it has any obstructions.
2. Evaporator fan motor
When the evaporator fan motor fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan is noisy, replace it.
3. Condenser fan motor
There might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor bearings might be defective. The condenser fan motor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
4. Compressor
See A.9
5. Water inlet valve
See B.2
G. Refrigerator defrost drain clogged
1. Clogged or freezing defrost drain
The defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw it out and ensure that the drain is clear of debris.
2. Drain trap
The drain strap is a small piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.
3. Drain heater
Some refrigerators are equipped with drain heaters. Drain heaters prevent the water in the drain pan from re-freezing and clogging the defrost drain. If your drain heater is defective or is not in the proper position, the defrost drain might freeze over.
H. Refrigerator freezer is cold, but refrigerator is warm
1. Evaporator coil is frosted
The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.
2. Evaporator fan motor
The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it.
3. Damper control assembly
The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.
4. Thermistor
See A.7
5. Temperature control board
See A.8
6. Defrost control board
See E.1
7. Defrost timer
See A.2
8. Defrost thermostat
See E.4
9. Main control board
See A.10
PLEASE CALL ME FOR MAIN CONTROL BOARD REPAIR
I. Refrigerator leaking water
1. Clogged or freezing defrost drain
The defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw it out and ensure that the drain is clear of debris.
2. Water tank assembly
Inspect the water tank assembly for any leaks. Be aware that the leak may be very small and hard to find. If you discover a leak, replace the water tank.
3. Water inlet valve
4. Water filter housing
Inspect the water filter housing for cracks. If you discover any cracks in the water filter housing, replace the housing.
6. Drain pan
The drain pan collects the water that melts from the evaporator coils. In order to evaporate the water in the drain pan, the condenser fan blows warm air from the condenser coils across the top of the drain pan. Because the condenser fan evaporates the water from the drain pan, the drain pan does not have to be emptied.
7. Water filter
The water filter might be not fitted properly on the filter housing. If the water filter is not fitted properly, water may leak from the filter. Remove and reinstall the filter to ensure that it is fitted properly.
J. Refrigerator freezing food
1. Temperature control thermostat
See A.5
2. Thermistor
See A.7
3. Temperature control board
See A.8
4. Main control board
See A.10
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5. Damper control assembly
See H.10
6. Damper
The damper opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper is stuck open, it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold.
K. Refrigerator ice & water
1. Dispenser control board
See B.4
2. Dispenser switch
See B.5
3. Door switch
See B.7
4. Main control board
See A.10
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L. Refrigerator icemaker overflowing
1. Water inlet valve
2. Low water pressure from house supply
3. Icemaker assembly
See C.3
M. Refrigerator light is not working
1. Light assembly
Some manufacturers don’t sell the light assembly components separately, and instead require you to purchase the light assembly.
2. Light bulb
The light bulb might be out. Replace the light bulb before replacing any of the other parts associated with the light bulb.
3. Light switch
To determine if the light switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the light switch does not have continuity, replace it.
4. Door switch
To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.
5. Light socket
To determine if the light socket is defective, use a multimeter to determine if the socket is getting power. If the socket is getting power, but the light bulb won’t work, this indicates that the light socket is defective.
6. Light board
N. Refrigerator runs constantly
1. Condenser coil is dirty
The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat from the refrigerator as refrigerant passes through them. If debris accumulates on the coils, the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove the heat. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down.
2. Freezer temperature is above 10 F (-12 C)
If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the refrigerator will not be cold enough. If the refrigerator is not cold enough, it will work harder to cold down. As a result, it will run constantly. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C). If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.
3. Defrost heater assembly
See E.3
4. Defrost thermostat
See E.4
5. Door gasket
If the Refrigerator runs constantly the door gasket may be torn or defective, or if the door is not shutting tightly warm air can enter the the refrigerator and cause the evaporator coils to ice over. This happens because humid air from the room is drawn into the refrigerator through the opening at the gasket. As the humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils it condenses and freezes.
6. Evaporator fan motor
See H.2
7. Defrost control board
See E.1
8. Defrost timer
See A.2
9. Main control board
See A.10
PLEASE CALL ME FOR MAIN CONTROL BOARD REPAIR
10. Condenser fan motor
See F.3