For information only. You may need an experience technician.
A. Dryer won't start
1. Thermal fuse
The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.
2. Start switch
To determine if the start switch is defective, attempt to start the dryer. If the dryer hums but does not start, the start switch is not at fault. If the dryer does not respond or make any noise, the start switch could be at fault. Use a multimeter to test the start switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.
3. Door switch
The door switch activates when the dryer door is closed. On most dryers, the door switch makes an audible clicking sound when it activates. To determine if the door switch is working, try starting your dryer and then listen for the “click.” If the door switch makes a clicking sound, it is probably not defective. If you don’t hear a click, use a multimeter to use the door switch for continuity.
4. Drive motor
The drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. Before replacing the motor, first check the thermal fuse, start switch, and door switch. If all of these parts are working properly, but the motor is making a humming noise, remove the belt from the motor and check the blower wheel for obstructions. If the blower wheel is clear of obstructions, the dryer motor might be at fault.
5. Drive belt
On most dryers, when the dryer belt breaks, the motor will still run, but the drum will not turn. However, some dryers have a switch that shuts off power to the dryer if the drive belt is broken. Check the dryer belt to determine if it is broken.
6. Belt switch
On most dryers, when the dryer belt breaks, the motor will still run, but the drum won’t turn. However, some dryers have a switch that shuts off power to the dryer if the drive belt is broken. If this switch fails, it could shut off power to the dryer even when the belt is not broken. First, start the dryer and then listen for a humming noise. If the dryer makes a humming noise when you try to start it, this indicates that the belt switch is not defective. Next, search for your model number to determine if your dryer has a belt switch. If your dryer has a belt switch, use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.
7. Incoming power problem
8. Timer
The timer might be defective. However, this is very rarely the case. Before replacing the timer, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, test the timer by using a multimeter and consulting the wiring diagram. If the timer is defective, replace it.
9. Main control board
The main control board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the main control board, check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board. (The control board cannot be easily tested, but you can try to inspect it for signs of burning or a shorted-out component.)
PLEASE CALL ME FOR CONTROL BOARD REPAIR
B. Dryer stop spinning
1. Drive belt
See A.5
2. Drum roller
The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the rollers don’t spin freely, the motor will get overloaded and the dryer will stop. If the drum rollers are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If one or more of the rollers don’t turn freely, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)
3. Drum support roller & axle
The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the drum roller axles are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely, causing the motor to overload and the dryer to stop. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the axles for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced.
4. Drum slide, glide or pad
The drum glides are small plastic pieces that support the front of the dryer drum. As the drum rotates, it slides on these plastic pieces. Over time, the drum glides wear out. If the drum glides are worn out, the drum can start binding and put strain on the motor. If this happens, the motor shuts down, preventing the dryer from turning. To determine if the drum glides are worn out, inspect them for wear.
5. Drum bearing
The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, this bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, it might put too much strain on the motor, causing the dryer to stop mid-cycle. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, check the drum bearing and replace it if necessary.
6. Drum roller axle
The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the roller axles are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely, causing the motor to overload and the dryer to stop. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear.
7. Drum support bearing
8. Drive motor
See A.4
9. Dryness control board
The dryness control board shuts off the dryer when the clothes have reached the proper level of dryness. If the control board is defective, it may cause the dryer to stop too early. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the control board check all the more commonly defective parts.
PLEASE CALL ME FOR CONTROL BOARD REPAIR
C. Dryer drum not turning
1. Drive belt
See A.5
2. Drum roller
See B.2
3. Drum support roller & axle
See B.3
4. Drum slide, glide or pad
See B.4
5. Drum bearing
See B.5
6. Drum roller axle
See B.6
7. Drum support bearing
If the drum bearing is worn out, it might put too much strain on the motor, causing the dryer to stop mid-cycle. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, replace the drum bearing.
8. Drive motor
See A.4
D. Dryer takes too long to dry
1. Air flow problem
If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.
2. Blower wheel
The blower wheel works with the drive motor to draw air into the dryer drum. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, it may take too long to dry clothes. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
3. Gas valve solenoid (gas version)
Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. Sometimes, a solenoid can fail several minutes into the drying cycle, causing the dryer to take a long time to dry the clothes. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective.
4. Heat element (electric version)
The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the heating element is burned out, or if any other part of the assembly is defective, the dryer may not heat. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity.
5. Heat element assembly (electric version)
The heating element assembly warms the air as it passes over. If the heating element is burned out, or if any other part of the assembly is defective, the dryer may not heat. If the dryer doesn’t heat, the dryer will take a substantial amount of time to dry clothes. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity.
6. Lint filter
The lint filter might be clogged. Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the lint filter is clogged, clean it.
7. Moisture sensor
The moisture sensor monitors the clothing’s moisture level and sends a signal to the control board when the clothes are dry. If the moisture sensor is malfunctioning, it could inaccurately report that the clothing is still moist, causing the dryer to keep running even though the clothes are dry.
8. High limit thermostat
The high-limit thermostat monitors the dryer temperature and shuts off the burner if the dryer overheats. If the high-limit thermostat is malfunctioning, it may shut off the burner even if the dryer is not overheating. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test it for continuity.
9. Cycling thermostat
The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. However, this is rarely the case.
10. Thermistor
If the dryer won’t stop, the thermistor might be defective. Some dryers have a thermistor. The control board uses the thermistor to monitor the dryer temperature and cycle the heat on and off. If the thermistor is defective, it may turn off the heat too early, considerably lengthening the drying time. However, this is rarely the case.
E. Dryer overheating
1. Heat element
See D.4
2. Heat element assembly
See D.5
3. Air flow problem
See D.1
4. Cycling thermostat
See D.9
5. Felt seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to prevent heat from escaping the drum. If the seal is worn out or missing, the heat will not be drawn through the drum properly, causing the dryer to get too hot. Check the drum seal to ensure that it is creating a reliable seal around the drum. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the felt seal check all the more commonly defective parts.
6. Blower wheel
See D.2
F. Dryer won't stop
1. Air flow problem
See D.1
2. Blower wheel
See D.2
3. Gas valve solenoid
See D.3
4. Heat element
See D.4
5. Heat element assembly
See D.5
6. Lint filter
See D.6
7. Moisture sensor
See D.7
8. Cycling thermostat
See D.9
9. High limit thermostat
See D.8
10. Thermistor
If the dryer won’t stop, the thermistor might be defective. Some dryers have a thermistor. The control board uses the thermistor to monitor the dryer temperature and cycle the heat on and off. If the thermistor is defective, it may turn off the heat too early, considerably lengthening the drying time. However, this is rarely the case.
11. Timer
See A.8
G. Dryer does not heat
1. Thermal fuse
See A.1
2. Gas solenoid valve
See D.3
3. Igniter (gas version)
The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity.
4. Flame sensor (gas version)
On a gas dryer, the flame sensor detects the heat emitted by the flame. If the flame sensor isn’t working, the dryer won’t heat. Before checking the flame sensor, first make sure that the igniter and thermal fuse are not at fault. To determine if the flame sensor is defective, use a multimeter to test the sensor for continuity at room temperature. If the flame sensor does not have continuity at room temperature, replace it.
5. Heat element
See D.4
6. Heat element assembly
See D.5
7. Incoming power problem
8. High limit thermostat
See D.8
9. Cycling thermostat
See D.9
10. Main control board
See A.9
11. Timer
See A.8
H. Dryer tripping breaker
1. The circuit breaker is weak
2. Heating element
See D.4
3. Heat element assembly
See D.5
4. Drive motor
See A.4
5. Terminal block
Electric dryer power cords attach to the dryer at a terminal block. If any of the wires on the terminal block are loose, they can arc and destroy part of the block. If this happens, one of the wires can short against the body of the dryer, causing the dryer to trip the breaker. This is not a common occurrence.
I. Dryer makes noise
1. Drive belt
See A.5
2. Drum roller
See B.2
3. Drum roller axle
See B.3
4. Blower wheel
See D.2
5. Drum bearing
See B.5
6. Drum support roller & axle
See B.3
7. Maintenance kit
8. Drum support bearing
See C.7
9. Drum slide, glide or pad
See B.4
10. Idler pulley
Inspect the idler pulley for signs of wear. If the idler pulley is worn or damaged, we recommend replacing the drive belt in addition to replacing the idler pulley.
11. Idler assembly
Inspect the idler assembly for signs of wear. If the idler assembly is worn or damaged, we recommend replacing the drive belt in addition to replacing the idler assembly.
12. Drive motor
See A.4